A restored neoclassical garden in the middle of Kathmandu — flowers, fountains, pergolas, and a calm that feels completely removed from the city outside its walls. It gets busy but it doesn’t feel crowded. The light through the vine-covered archways makes for some of the best photos I got in Nepal.

The monkeys are everywhere and they’re completely unbothered by people. The temple complex at the top of the hill is an active religious site — treat it accordingly. The stairs on the way up often have people selling fortunes or writing names on grains of rice. The city views from the top are excellent, and a photo of the stupa with a monkey nearby is essentially mandatory.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site in the heart of the old city, filled with temple structures going back centuries. One of the buildings is home to the Kumari — a young girl believed to be a living incarnation of a goddess, selected in childhood and visited by people seeking her blessing. We visited the square multiple nights and found it consistently one of the best places in the city for photography, especially after dark.

The main tourist district and the most practical neighborhood for getting things done. Souvenirs, trekking gear, clothing, restaurants — everything is here. If you’re planning to hike, this is where you get your supplies. It’s right next to Durbar Square so the two work well together.

The iconic monument with the painted eyes watching from the top of the spire. Walking the circular path around the base with the prayer wheels spinning is genuinely peaceful. The buildings surrounding the stupa are also part of the heritage site — look at the woodwork and stone carvings on the facades up close. Spinning the prayer wheels is said to bring good luck.

A short trip outside the city. Patan is known as the “Beautiful City” — Lalitpur in Nepali — and holds significance for both Hinduism and Buddhism. The Patan Durbar Square has a well-preserved royal palace and detailed temple architecture. The stairs are steep and uneven so watch your footing. One note: some buildings were damaged in the 2015 earthquake and reconstruction has been ongoing. The damage is visible in places.

Nagarkot is a small hill station about an hour from Kathmandu, known for having some of the clearest views of the Himalayas — including Everest on a good day. Sunrise is supposed to be the best time to go. When we visited it was overcast, so we didn’t get the views, but a local worker showed us his own photographs to give us a sense of what it looks like on a clear day. Go with flexible expectations — the views are worth it if the sky cooperates.

If you’re looking for something locally made and genuinely crafted, Bhaktapur’s Pottery Square is the right place. Artisans work in the open and the quality of the pieces — small stone animals, cups, decorative items — is noticeable. My mom bought an espresso cup here that’s still one of her favorite things from the entire trip. If you have time, ask about pottery classes.

This is one of the most sacred Hindu sites in the world and also the location of public cremations along the Bagmati River. The platforms where cremations take place are visible from across the river. I want to be straightforward: if you’re not prepared to see cremations, this isn’t the place for you. If you are prepared, the experience is deeply significant and the temple complex itself is architecturally extraordinary.

This was my first trip to Asia and the food completely reframed what I thought Asian cuisine meant. Momos are the thing to try — Nepali dumplings with spiced meat or vegetable filling, served with unique dipping sauces. Think of them as related to Chinese dumplings but with their own distinct flavor profile that’s better than anything I’d had before. Also worth trying: mutton in spiced cumin broth, and the fresh fruit — especially dragon fruit if you can find it ripe.